Los Gallos Review in The Baton Rouge Advocate

Los Gallos a lot like a culinary tour of Mexico

By CYNTHIA V. CAMPBELL
Restaurant Reviewer
Published: Aug 10, 2007

Patrons of Los Gallos Mexican Grill and Cantina on Siegen Lane have something to crow about — authentic cuisine created with the flavors of Old Mexico.

Almost anyone who has dined in Mexico’s interior or in cafes along the U.S.-Mexico border will have specific ideas of what makes a good enchilada or tamale. Many dishes are traditional only in certain regions, and often don’t make it across the border. However, Las Gallos has designed a menu with dishes that represent Mexico’s various regions as well as the familiar Tex-Mex area of the United States.

During our first visit we took extra time to study the menu, which included any number of seafood dishes (think Vera Cruz or Acapulco) as well as beef and chicken specialties. Baskets of crisp, fried tostadas (chips) were brought to the table along with a medium-hot tomato-based salsa. Water and iced tea were served in small pitchers, with multiple lemon slices, saving the waiter effort in frequent refillings.

We started with empanadas ($7.95), light pastry pies filled with finely ground beef, which were crispy and delicious. Although the filling did not include traditional ingredients such as almonds and raisins, the ground beef was lightly seasoned with salt and pepper and was not in the least bit greasy. They arrived six to the plate and were served with fresh pico de gallo, a blend of tomato, onion and cilantro.

The camarones el amigo ($17.50) is one of the best Mexican seafood dishes we’ve tasted in Baton Rouge. This platter features eight jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon with a small amount of jalapenos and topped with cheddar and Monterrey cheese. The blend of spicy peppers, mild cheese and delicate shrimp explodes with flavor at the first bite. The dish includes a small salad with a scoop of guacamole, rice, beans and pico de gallo.

The Los Gallos Pick 3 Combination ($13.95) allows the customer to create his own dish with a choice of three staple items. As a test of our favorites, we selected a chile relleno (add $1), a tamale and an enchilada poblano. The tamale, which came wrapped in its corn shuck, was flavored well with a touch of spiced meat filling, but it was small and somewhat dry. The chile relleno, a medium-size green poblano pepper, was stuffed with creamy cheese and fried in Los Gallos batter, which was somewhat soggy. The enchilada was packed with delicious lightly seasoned chicken and topped with a thick mole sauce, a blended combination of chile powders, ground nuts and Mexican chocolate. While not as finely blended as the moles of Puebla, Mexico, the ingredients were properly balanced with just the right amount of chocolate to create an interesting taste.

There’s something to be said about Los Gallos’ rice and beans, traditional sides with most main dishes. Unlike refried beans that are literally mashed and refried over and over until nearly dry, these beans are smooth and creamy. On our first visit the rice was a bit soggy, as if too much liquid has been added during the cooking process. However, on our second visit to the restaurant, the Mexican rice was near perfection — light, fluffy and seasoned with tidbits of tomato, peas, corn and carrots.

During our second visit to Los Gallos, we started with Sopes ($7.95), small round corn masa appetizers with pinched up rims, filled with a thin layer of refried beans and topped with layers of ground beef and chicken, lettuce, chopped fresh tomatoes and a mound of grated Monterrey cheese, all served with sour cream.

A bowl of chicken lime soup ($3.95) was a simple, delicate chicken broth packed with diced potato, yellow squash, zucchini squash and chicken seasoned with just a touch of onion and cilantro.

One guest chose the Filete de Res, filet mignon ($23.95) and really enjoyed the tender steak, although it was grilled longer than requested and turned out well done. It was served with one chile relleno, rice, beans, guacamole and tangy pico de gallo.

The huachinago al gusto ($15.95) is one of Mexico’s popular seafood dishes. We asked that the whole red fish be sautéed in the traditional Vera Cruz style — smothered in a mild tomato sauce seasoned with onions and green peppers. It was delicious, a perfect treat for a seafood lover.

Without doubt, our favorite dish is the Hawaiian Mango Salad ($10.95), but it really is misnamed because Mexican cooks often use tropical fruits in their dishes. The large salad features slices of sweet, succulent mango, papaya and peach atop a bed of crisp lettuce along with a generous amount of grilled chicken fajita, rings of fresh bell peppers and onions, and topped with sprigs of fresh cilantro.

Diners have the option of choosing from any number of traditional salad dressings, but we were treated to the cook’s choice, a delicate homemade dressing enhanced with a touch of orange juice. It perfectly complemented the chicken and fruit.

Our waiter admitted many customers don’t order dessert after indulging on chips, salsa and rich Mexican food. However, the restaurant offers choices of flan, tres leches cake, fried cheesecake and sopapilla fritters. We opted for apple pie ($3.95) and the creamy vanilla ice cream, which was topped with a hot cinnamon and sugar sauce. It was a sweet, memorable treat.

Los Gallos presents a pleasant dining experience. The décor is a somewhat subdued Mexican theme in shades of gold, red and green. However fanciful large, cartoon-like roosters can be seen on the front doors and on the walls. It’s a fun, relaxed atmosphere. Although there’s a bar along one wall and margaritas and other mixed drinks are served, the restaurant is designed for families and handles large groups easily. We found the wait staff friendly and extremely courteous.

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